The Romans can be a little territorial when it comes to their cuisine, but the newly minted VyTA is hoping to tempt the city’s culinary chauvinists over to the gastronomic pleasures of the Lazio region.

A 16th-century townhouse in ancient via Frattina has reimagined by local architect Daniela Colli into a soigné three-storey cocoon of contrasting textures, geometric patterns, and muted sheens.

Lined with black marble, the ground floor wine-bar sets the scene with a 17m long counter of polished copper surrounded by black leather stools. This adjoins a bijou food and wine library that Colli has swathed in rose gold mirrors and green velvet.

By contrast, the second floor dining room – really a sequence of three separate salons – mixes black ceilings, textured concrete and orange velvet chairs with dark stained oak floors and a canopy of pentagonal mirrors.

It’s a suitably dramatic backdrop for executive chef Dino De Bellis’s smartly produced seasonal menu of cold Torpedino tomato soup flaked with buffalo mozzarella Campana and paprika bread crumble, a classic Pecorino and pepper pasta, braised boned rabbit served with Viterbo potatoes and sundried tomatoes, and fork-tender Amatrice pork cheek – every dish ably complemented by a bottle picked from the comprehensively stocked basement cellar.

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